Friday, February 21, 2014

Rules Optional: Driving in Manila


Guest post by Stella:
After three days riding as passengers in a car, Hanna and I still hold our breaths on near misses on the road. I don't squeeze her arm in panic and now just exchange knowing smiles each time we see some nerve wracking situations. We are now getting used to the fact that we are safe with our very skilled driver, my sister-in-law, who can definitely put the New York taxi driver to shame. We only occasionally try to put on our imaginary seatbelts in the backseat. Seatbelts are not required for back seat passengers and even if you want to wear them the cars don't have them installed in the back seat.

There is a variety of public transportation one can avail of to get around the city. Buses looked quite clean and are driven as well as the other cars. Jeepneys can seat up to 20 people. Two with the driver and the rest sitting on two rows (parallel to the road) facing each other in the back. There are 2 so called Jesus bars above your head you can grab hold on to to keep from sliding from your seat or leaning too much on the next passenger as the jeepney speeds between stops. Their goal is to pick up as many fares in their route. Bus or jeepney stops are ignored as they willfully stop anywhere to let passengers on or off. Car drivers try to drive on the leftmost side to avoid getting stuck behind these vehicles as they tend to be very unpredictable on when they stop.

Then they have the tricycle and the pedicab.  Tricycles are motorcycles with an attached cab to its side and can fit two passengers. Pedicabs are similar but use a bicycle instead . Although they are made to comfortably and safely seat 3 passengers, we've seen them with ten people on the road. Two people behind the driver, four inside the cab where two of them are sitting and the other two on the narrow floor or maybe the other one partially hanging halfway off the side, two more sitting in the one by two feet spot that serves as a back hood, and one hanging Jason Bourne-esque style on top of the roof.



For the tourists there is the caretela, which is a carriage driven by a horse. The carriage is set up higher on the ground so you can get a better view. We had the pleasure of taking a ride on a caretela driven by Eddie, who had a nice toothless smile. His white with brown-streaked horse, Richard, seems to be as old as its owner. A little cranky at first but he seems to like his role as the main attraction on this ride. Richard would follow directions well as he navigates through the traffic maze in the mid-morning heat. He is quite patient as we try to get on and off the carriage multiple times to walk through some tourist spots. He doesn't miss a beat in his trot as we were asked to adjust the weight in the carriage by moving our spot in the seat to balance it. Our tour guide Carlos, whose English is quite excellent, took us around the old Manila district - Intramuros and the fort, Luneta Park, Jose Rizal monument, and the university row. I have visited these places when I was younger and have studied this part of the history in school but it still amazes me that I have learned new things from Carlos. We went to see two beautiful churches San Agustin and the Manila Cathedral. The church of San Agustin is the oldest church in the country. At over 440 years, the church still stands and still is open for mass on Sundays. Manila Cathedral, currently undergoing reconstruction, is a beautiful church. It is popular for local celebrities and politicians who want to get married ala Westminster Abby style.

Caretelas are allowed to be driven on the main roads alongside cars, buses, etc. It's amazing to watch Richard pull the carriage through all the speeding, honking modern machines. Eddie, our driver, told us that the horse has the right of way because he can't see very well on the side, and can't stop all the time. We realized that right of way means not following the stoplights or road signs. I am not sure whether I fear for our lives sitting on the carriage or for the horse that just kept going in spite of the oncoming traffic as we turn left from the main road. Surprisingly, all cars stop to let us through. If you think riding through the smaller streets is easier, it is even more interesting. Since horses can't just stop suddenly, Eddie would be yelling "Excuse the horse!" whenever a pedestrian or a vehicle is in its way.  Feeling more confident about our role in the road, we started adding "Richard is coming through." Just like the Red Sea, the road is parted and everyone seems to not mind moving over for Richard. As we said our goodbyes and thanks, Richard the lion-hearted, gave as a nonchalant nod of his head and rode off to find a spot of shade where he will rest until the next group of tourists comes along.

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